December 28, 2017

Know your fibres

Man-made or chemical fibres are those whose chemical composition, structure, and properties are significantly modified during the manufacturing process. Man-made fibres consist of regenerated fibres (semi-synthetc) and synthetic fibres. Semi-synthetic fibres are made from raw materials that are only modified and partially degraded by chemical processes, in contrast to completely synthetic fibres such as nylon or polyester, where the chemist synthesises the compounds.

 

Part Two: Regenerated/Semi-synthetic Fibres

Most semi-synthetic fibres are cellulose regenerated fibres. The cellulose is from wood pulp or cotton waste and linters from cotton fabric manufacture.

In general, the fabrics from regenerated fibres are less expensive than other man-made textiles. This means that they can be used to make fancy & beautiful garments at more affordable prices. They tend to have great moisture absorbency, have luster and are smooth. The types of fabric construction that is available vary from light to medium weight, but the closer the fabric construction the more stable the fabric is. Usually the fashion industry uses these textiles for blouses, dresses, children’s swear, knitwear and low-priced jacquard fabrics.

RAYON / VISCOSE,  MODAL & CUPRO

Rayon (also known as viscose) is made from regenerated cellulose - wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. It has similar properties to silk - a lustrous appearance, drapes well, highly absorbent, and gives no static or pilling problems. Other types of rayon made in slightly different ways are modal (made from beech trees) & cupro.

Originally rayon was a ‘dry clean only’ fibre. Fibre producers then discovered that they could create washable rayon by putting finishes on the surface of the fabric after it was made. However, this made the fabric expensive so many rayon fabrics in the marketplace remain untreated, and are ‘dry clean only’. This means that if they are washed, they can shrink (sometimes as much as two or three sizes) and fade, or the colour may bleed. The fabric can also become stiff and harsh.

Pros: Comfortable fabric against the skin and absorbs moisture. Drapes well.
Cons: Very weak & requires care when washing. Distorts, wrinkles & can shrink easily. Poor resistance to sunlight, and poor durability.
How to wash: Very important to follow the garment care label. Hand washing in cool water and drying the garment flat or on a washing line is best. More info can be found here.

ACETATE

Acetate is derived from cellulose. It does not wrinkle and also resists shrinkage, moths and mildew. It has a luxurious appearance, a soft crisp feel and drapes well. Pure acetate is usually dry clean only. It is generally used for dress linings and special occasion wear, and as a substitute for fabric such as satins, taffetas and brocades.

Pros: A soft handle, good drape and crisp touch.
Cons: Poor durability and fair sunlight resistance.
Washing: Always follow the care labels on the garment. More on washing & stain removal here.

 

 

TRIACETATE

Compared to acetate, triacetate gives better properties to the fabric. Apparently it’s wrinkle resistant AND maintains creases & pleats well, but I don’t see how it can be both these things!

Pros: dries quickly and is more wrinkle and sunlight resistant.
Cons: poor durability.
Washing: Always follow the care labels on the garment. More on washing & stain removal here.

Environmental impacts & what to do about it

It has been noted in the press recently that the manufacturing process of regenerated fibres involves the use of highly-toxic and hazardous chemicals, such as caustic soda and sulphuric acid which can be harmful to the worker involved & the environment. This is one of the reasons that has lead to a decline in viscose use in the fashion industry. However, other sustainable regenerated fibres with less environmental impact and non-toxic manufacture process have been developed.

LYOCELL / TENCEL

Developed in the 1980s, lyocell (trademark name Tencel) is an eco-friendly regenerated fibre made from wood pulp, usually eucalyptus. Some of the environmental benefits of this fibre are its renewable raw material (eucalyptus reaches maturity in seven years) and its full biodegradability.

Pros: Good absorbency, soft and drapes well. Excellent durability. Wrinkle resistant.
Cons: Manufacturing is expensive and considerably energy consuming.
Washing: Always follow the care labels on the garment. More on washing & stain removal here.

More recently other regenerated fibres have been developed. They are made from a protein – either from a vegetable, such as soya beans, or from an animal, such as milk. The protein structure is modified by bio-engineering techniques and the resulting solution spun into a fibre.

SOY

Soy fabric is made from the leftover dregs from soybean oil or tofu production making it eco-friendly. Similar to natural silk, and sometimes called ‘vegetable cashmere,’ it is common to find occasional slubs which adds to its natural beauty. 

Pros: Very soft, smooth handle. Silky lustre and excellent drape. Very good absorbency and good sunlight resistance. Natural antibacterial properties.
Cons: Expensive if grown organically with no genetic modification.
Washing: Its care is the same as cotton fabric. Read more here.

BAMBOO

Bamboo is an easy to grow, rapidly regenerating raw material. When used to create a clothing fabric, bamboo is processed in a viscose spinning way, in which bamboo is the source of raw cellulose. This way of processing still uses chemical additives so it has a similar environmental impact as conventional viscose.

Bamboo can also be created in a more eco-friendly way, similar to lyocell spinning, with no chemical additives. This type of fabric tends to be called bio-bamboo and obtains much higher strength compared to the other.

Pros: Light and strong. Excellent wicking properties. Some antibacterial properties (reduces bacteria that cause unpleasant odours). Insulating - will keep you cooler in summer and warmer in winter.
Cons: Depending on how it is processed it may be very weak.
Washing: Use cold water and the gentle wash cycle for regular care and never use chlorine bleach. More detailed washing info can be found here.

 

After researching for this article, it certainly seems like there are lots of more environmentally friendly options out there than just 'natural fibres.'  Does anyone know of any other cool new fibres not mentioned here? I don't know about you but I'm certainly going to be changing my washing habits when it comes to clothes made of viscose! 

 

Sources - with thanks to

https://www.loveyourclothes.org.uk/guides/fabric-focus-synthetic-fabrics

http://www.ecofashionsewing.com/fibres-textiles/fabric-fashion-industry-natural-fibres/

https://www.thespruce.com/fabric-glossary-clothes-you-wear-2145791

 

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